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The Ensaïmada. Mallorca's Spiral Pastry and the Story Behind It

Traditional Mallorcan ensaïmada spiral pastry dusted with icing sugar

Key takeaway

The ensaïmada has been made in Mallorca continuously for at least four centuries. It holds Protected Geographical Indication status, meaning the real version can only be produced in the Balearic Islands. Everything sold elsewhere under the name is, technically, not the same thing.

If you have ever flown out of Palma's Son Sant Joan airport, you have seen the distinctive octagonal boxes that fill the luggage racks of every departing flight. Inside each one: an ensaïmada. The pastry has become Mallorca's most exported product, the thing visitors take home to prove they were there.

What Is an Ensaïmada?

The ensaïmada is a large spiral pastry made from a yeasted dough enriched with saïm (lard), eggs, sugar, and flour. The dough is rolled extremely thin, spread with lard, then coiled into its signature spiral shape and baked until golden. The result is light, layered, and flaky, pulled apart in long soft strands, fragrant with citrus and the faint richness of the fat.

It is dusted heavily with icing sugar before serving. It is best eaten warm, the same morning it was baked. The large format is meant to be shared.

The History of the Name

The name comes from saïm, the Catalan word for lard, derived from the Latin sagimen. The ensaïmada is, at its root, a lard pastry. The use of lard rather than butter or olive oil gives it a particular character that neither can replicate: a softness and a subtle depth of flavour that you cannot substitute out of the recipe without making something different.

The pastry appears in historical documents from the seventeenth century in Mallorca. Its exact origin is disputed, some historians trace it to Jewish bakers, others to Arab culinary influence. What is not disputed is that it has been made on the island continuously for at least four centuries.

Protected Geographical Indication

In 2003, the ensaïmada de Mallorca was granted Protected Geographical Indication status by the European Union. This means that the name "ensaïmada de Mallorca" can only be applied to pastries made in the Balearic Islands following the traditional method. Everything sold elsewhere under the name is, technically, not the same thing.

The PGI specification governs ingredient ratios, the method of coiling, minimum thickness, and baking time. It is a strict standard, and the difference between a compliant ensaïmada and a generic spiral pastry is immediately apparent to anyone who has eaten the real version.

Varieties

The plain ensaïmada (llisa) is the traditional form. There are also filled versions: ensaïmada de sobrassada with pork sausage, de cabell d'àngel with preserved pumpkin jam (the traditional filling for festivals), de nata with cream. The large format, sold in the characteristic round octagonal box, is the one most associated with gifting and celebration.

For more on sobrassada, the traditional filling, see the Mallorcan Food Glossary.

Learn to Make Pastry at Soqueta

The Mallorcan Pastry Experience at Soqueta Experiences covers traditional Mallorcan baking including pastry techniques related to the island's centuries-old sweet and savoury baking traditions. Chef Paula has been making these recipes since childhood, the timing, the texture, the precise moment the dough is ready, knowledge that cannot be absorbed from a recipe alone.

The ensaïmada is also one of the traditional Mallorcan recipes covered in the full cooking experience, where you learn the technique alongside the island's other defining dishes.

Can I buy a real ensaïmada to take home from Mallorca?

Yes. Authentic ensaïmada de Mallorca is sold in the characteristic octagonal boxes at pastelería shops throughout Palma and at the airport. The large format travels well for up to two days. Avoid anything in plastic packaging, it will not be the same product.

What is the difference between a plain ensaïmada and a filled one?

The plain version (llisa) is dusted with icing sugar and eaten as-is. Filled versions include sobrassada (savoury, cured pork sausage), cabell d'àngel (sweet pumpkin jam, the traditional festival filling), and nata (cream). The plain version is the most traditional and arguably the best showcase of the pastry itself.